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Stranger in a strange land

Finding a place to watch hoops with the home crowd was a tall order

Posted: Tuesday August 17, 2004 9:11PM; Updated: Wednesday August 18, 2004 5:25AM
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  Opening With A Bang

Finding a crowd of hometown hoops fans outside the arena proved tougher than it sounded.
AP
Can't find LeBron anywhere in the Plaka. No 'Melo on Panos Street. No A.I. on Ermou.

Doric ruins to my left, vendors hawking souvlaki to my right, but no U.S.-Greece on a television anywhere.

I've left the refuge of the Media Press Center to watch Greece's Dream Team play against the fellas, and as I stumble my way through the narrow streets of Plaka like a clueless malaka, I realize I'm screwed.

I am a tourist in a tourist area looking for an ESPNZone. Finally, after about a half-hour, I see the game on a small television at a cafe called Yspia, but there's barely anybody inside. Next up is nearby Centrale, an upscale cafe with a crowd more interested in wine than Dwyane Wade. No dice. By now I'm thinking the first quarter is surely over and I'm blogger without a blog.

Onto Mitropoleos, where I see an oasis in the form of a Maple Leaf. Canada House. The patron house of Canadians at the Olympic Games.

I'm greeted by Kirstin Normand, who represented Canada in synchronized swimming for a decade and won a bronze medal in Sydney. The place is usually open to friends and family of Canadian athletes, but I drop Michael Farber's name and I'm suddenly money.

Canada rocks. On the second floor of the house is the U.S.-Greece game airing on the fabulous CBC. Greece leads, 13-9. This is perfect. Basketball on the CBC and a rooftop view of the Acropolis at halftime.

"This is sweet, eh," says Kristin, as we check out the Acropolis.

Sweet, indeed. Kirstin is staying at the Olympic Village and tells me that she was at the swimming venue following the star-studded 200-meter freestyle final and was on the same bus back to the village as Ian Thorpe and Michael Phelps. Turns out they all had to wait nearly an hour for transportation. Even multiple-gold medalists have to deal with the traffic problems in Athens. Makes me feel better.

But as nice has Kirstin is, my goal is to watch the game with the homefolk. So I bid adieu to Canada House and Kirstin and head back to Centrale, where I see Bronnie's got things well in hand. His dunk and subsequent chest-bump of Richard Jefferson has given the U.S. a 29-19 lead with 5:33 left in the half.

A Greek man in blue polo shirt throws his hands up in disgust and walks away. I should do the same. How can there not be a crowd watching the basketball match of the tournament?

Finally, as I make my way to Kirykeiou just off Pandrosson, I find an outdoor cafe with a swarm of blue and white. I have arrived. There are nearly 300 people glued to a 15-foot TV screen showing the game on Greek television ET1.

But as the game closes in on the half, ET1 switches to tennis, where Greece's Eleni Daniilidou is in pain and serving for the match against No. 15 seed Magdalena Maleeva of Bulgaria. What the crowd in the Plaka won't discover until later is that Daniilidou is playing with a torn thigh muscle. She hits a crosscourt winner and the place erupts. It is now match point, and after a long rally, Daniilidou goes down, screaming in pain. She isn't getting up and ET1 switches back to the Greece-U.S. basketball game. The Greeks have cut a nine-point deficit to 37-31 as 'Melo misses to end the half.

I need to catch my breath so I walk down Mitropoleos. Big mistake. The Plaka is a ravenous hungry madhouse. Everybody is screaming an order at someone. All I want is a Diet Coke, but I have no chance.

Somehow, I get back to my spot near the television, except 200 additional people have joined us.

Second half and it's now 39-33 U.S. Then, 39-35. Finally, 39-38. The Greeks are losing it. Cheering, chanting, but ET1 flips back to the tennis match. Daniilidou is back up and hitting a forehand and rushes the net. Backhand volley winner. Game, set match, Greece. Daniilidou falls down in exhaustion. Six hundred Greeks cheer around me. I find myself caught up in the tsunami. I'm all about Greek tennis.

But ET1 switches right back to the Dreamers, who lead by three until Antonio Fotsis sticks a jumper with 5:23 left. What is the Greek word for "Olympic bust"? The U.S. defense is as solid as tzatziki. But A.I. and Timmy D soon restore order, and I'm suddenly joined by Bill Wilson, the father of U.S. gymnast, Blaine Wilson. His son, he of the thousands of injuries, finally won a medal the night before.

"My son doesn't get emotional, but he did last night," says Bill.

Bill says Blaine's post-Olympic plans include moving to California (perfect for his wife, beach volleyball player Makare Deselits) to open up a gymnastics center. Right now, the U.S. basketball team could use them both.

By the noise of the crowd -- since Bill and I can no longer clearly see the screen thanks to the swarm of Greeks who have moved in front of us -- Greece has cut the lead to 62-61 with 6:17 left. Order is soon restored with a U.S. run, but the Greeks will not die. They wait until the last minute. It is the Greek way.

Carlos Boozer misses a pair of free throws, but a Greek 3-pointer makes it, 75-71. I see the headline already: Miracle on Mitropoleos.

With 16 seconds left, Dimitris Pipanikoulaou misses a chippy. How do you say "Charles Smith" in Greek? Lamar Odom hits a pair of free throws, a steal, and it ends, 77-71. People slowly leave the cafe, in search of another party. If only Canada House were still open.

 
  Faster, Higher, Stronger
Keep an eye on Puerto Rico guard Carlos Arroyo, who is not-so-quietly emerging as a star in Athens. Arroyo scored 24 points on 9-of-16 shooting in his team's upset of the U.S. and added 25 points in a 98-90 loss yesterday to Lithuania. The Utah Jazz could be looking at a big-time player next year. ... Celebrity sighting of the day goes to SI senior writer Michael Farber, who chatted up Sex in the City actress Kristin Davis outside the Helleniko  Olympic Complex prior to the U.S. softball team's game against China. Both are alumni of Rutgers University, along with Calista Flockhart and James Gandolfini. "I graduated in 1973 and women who looked like Kristin Davis wouldn't talked to me then," says Farber, who has since proven he has no trouble engaging the likes of Christian Ruuttu and Christian Berglund.
 
  Don't Miss
Shotput, Olympia
There is old-school. Then there is ancient-school. The last time they held a competition at the Stadium of Ancient Olympia, the original Olympic Stadium, was the year 393 AD. The 15,000 spectators will be able to view the competition from the surrounding lawns, with no electronic boards or artificial lighting. The event will air on MSNBC in the morning. Adam Nelson, John Godina and Reese Hoffa -- a medal sweep is not impossible -- represent the U.S. men. Another cool note: The women's shotput will mark the first time in history a woman will compete in the ancient stadium.

Men's individual all-around final, OAKA Indoor Hall
No American man has won the gold medal all-around in gymnastics, but that could change today. Paul Hamm, the 2003 world champion, qualified in first place for the men's all-around, as well as the team, floor exercise, pommel horse, parallel bars and high-bar finals for a total of six possible medals.

Men's 200-meter breaststroke final, OAKA Aquatic Centre
Another showdown between Japan's Kosuke Kitajima, winner of the 100-meter breastroke, and American Brenden Hansen, who took silver.

Men's 100-meter freestyle final, OAKA Aquatic Centre
A monster race is shaping up, featuring Thorpe, Pieter van den Hoogenband and South Africans Roland Schoeman and Ryk Neethling..

 
  Greek Tragedies
The Greek daily Kathimerni offered an editorial Monday on the Sisyphean struggles of the Greeks, citing the twin spires of Greek culture: tragedy and joy. ?Why is it that each time our country tried to take fly, it trips over and falls? What is obstructing it? Why is it a success at the private level and a disappointment at the public level? How could Greece, a country with no tradition in voluntary work, offer such excellent service and at the same time fail to tackle [Costas] Kenteris and [Katerina] Thanou fiasco?" ... High meltemia ["northerly wind"] are affecting plenty of venues, from swimming to tennis. Gusts between 13 and 28 mph are expected to continue through Friday. ... Swiss tennis star Roger Federer, the world No. 1 and a favorite of SI.com's Jon Wertheim's, was defeated in the second round of the tournament by Tomas Berdych of the Czech Republic. Come again? Yes, Tomas Berdych, the No. 74 player in the world who improved his 2004 match record to 5-7. So much for the dream final of Federer and Andy Roddick.
 

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