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From the Backstretch

More than just racing at Churchill Downs

Click here for more on this story

Posted: Saturday May 01, 1999 11:42 AM

  In a setting like Churchhill Downs, it's hard for any spectator to leave disappointed. AP

By Jon Scher, CNN/SI

LOUISVILLE, Ky. -- If the Kentucky Derby is the most exciting two minutes in sports, then the Kentucky Oaks must be the most exciting 1:49.

Derby Day will have to go a long way to surpass the atmosphere inside Churchill Downs for Friday's 125th running of the Oaks. On a perfect afternoon, a record crowd of 101,034 people packed the twin-spired grandstand and the raucous infield for the fillies-only Derby preliminary.

Silverbulletday, a prohibitive favorite trained by Bob Baffert, surged from behind on the backstretch to win by a couple of lengths. Afterward, Baffert was mobbed by journalists at trackside, a scene that might be repeated on Saturday. Baffert is counting on one of three horses -- General Challenge, Prime Timber or the filly Excellent Meeting -- to win him an unprecedented third consecutive Derby.

"It's hard to separate these three," Baffert said. "General Challenge is probably the most talented, and I think Prime Timber is ready to run his best race. I just hope that when they're turning for home in the Derby I don't have to say to myself, 'I wish I had run Silverbulletday in there.'" ...

Churchill Downs is in full bloom. Flowers are everywhere-from scarlet tulips outside the Turf Club to purple pansies planted by the stables. To honor the symbol of the Derby, many women have pinned roses to their hats.

Speaking of headgear, this place is an Easter parade of colorful bonnets. In the bumper-to-bumper human traffic under the grandstand and at the betting windows, some of these big-hatted ladies are suffering bent brims. That wasn't a problem for one woman I saw, who sported a multicolored beanie topped with a working propeller.

Men seem to look to other articles of clothing for self-expression, though I did spot one guy in a baseball cap with a foot-long brim. My vote for the day's biggest eyesore-besides Baffert's shock of white hair-was the man in the maroon checked leisure suit. Do us a favor and burn that thing, will you? ...

Sign you won't see anywhere else: No Parking/Horse Walk. ... The Derby Princesses were making the rounds. Shannon, Marissa, Kelly, Michelle and Holly wore matching pink dresses and rhinestone crowns. Is this 1999, or 1959? ...

There are betting windows inside the press box. Five of them. And in case those are busy, there's an ATM that takes bets, too. ...

If you've run out of cash and your spouse has swiped your ATM card, you can go to the bank under the grandstand. This year, Firstar Bank has opened its first branch at Churchill Downs. Just a guess, but the friendly tellers probably handle more withdrawals than deposits. ...

Memo to Al Gore: When you arrive for the Derby, don't forget to pick up a $16 Maker's Mark 125th Anniversary cigar, for sale at, where else?, the cigar stand. It's good politics to surprise the boss with a gift from the road ...

The loudest noise at Churchill Downs is not the roar of the crowd, or the thunder of hoofbeats as the horses charge down the home stretch. It's the shrill sound of screams reverberating through the tunnels that link the grandstand and the infield. After a few mint juleps, revelers seem to enjoy blowing off steam by standing under the track and yelling at the top of their lungs. ...

Souvenir City: Once you get past the $49 denim button-downs, the basic take-home stuff is reasonably priced-at least relative to, say, the Super Bowl. Adult T-shirts will run you $20, kids' shirts are $14, and sweatshirts emblazoned with slogans ("Go Baby, Go Baby, Go Baby, Go!") are a modest $29.

Loneliest man at Churchill Downs: The guy in the "Sign Up to be a Designated Driver" booth. Fortunately, the best and easiest way to get to and from the track is on a city bus ($3 each way). ...

At 4:10 p.m., after an hour of standing trackside in the sun, I tried my first mint julep. I bought the frosty concoction from a young woman named Felicia, who was hauling around a tray of about 20 souvenir glasses. After paying $6.25 to lighten her load, I asked her how long it took to empty the tray. "About 15 minutes," she said over her shoulder as she helped the next customer.

Sad to say, the drink was watery and the sprig of mint was kind of wilted. It was like a slightly alcoholic mint Slurpee. But I get to keep the nifty souvenir glass. There must be better Juleps in the infield.

On Derby Day, we'll find out.

Come back early tomorrow afternoon for another installment of From the Backstretch.

 
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