I must say that although you waste many unnecessary words on subjects that obviously do not fall into the category of sports, e.g., horse racing, which belongs on the financial pages; yachting, which belongs only on the society pages; bridge, the middle-class contribution to club-ism; your general contributions to this most dynamic area of sports are above average.
Mr. Stanley Frank's article concerning the meaningful meaninglessness of statistics in sports is a historic endeavor to curb the overwhelming tide of absurd numeration that threatens to engulf the sports page reader's mind. Mr. Frank is a bold and honorable man. There is no hope for salvation as regards the multitudes of men and women who are shamefully masquerading in the guise of sports reporters, but possibly, if the young and budding sportswriters would use the ideas embodied in this and like articles as a constitution, there may be hope.
R. O. WILLIAMS JR.
FOOD: SNOW GOOSE
Young snow geese may be Fair game for Monsieur Louis (FOOD, NOV. 17), but they are out of bounds for most of the rest of us.
If someone has domesticated snow geese and is selling them commercially, I would appreciate knowing the source.
Few wild birds are more delicious than a young snow goose; and no sort of meat is tougher than an adult. It has the consistency of a rubber boot and gets tougher the longer you cook it.
CHARLES P. DURKIN
•The management of "21" gets its young snow geese from shooting friends. They are no longer commercially available in New York City. Below, Mr. Durkin will find two recipes from Mary Mabon's bulging files applicable to the preparation of the snow goose, including one for those tough old ones.
CANADIAN SNOW GOOSE (young and old). A young gosling can be stuffed and roasted like a turkey. Sauté half a pound of chicken livers and the cut-up goose liver and heart in a little butter, then add ½ teaspoon rosemary, ¾ cup sherry or Madeira and 1 cup chicken stock, and simmer until tender. Mix this with 1 pound unshelled, roasted chestnuts, ½ pound cooked sausage meat, 1 cup sliced mushrooms and enough bread crumbs to achieve a good consistency and to fill the cavity of the bird, which will vary in size. Lard the breast with strips of salt pork, inserted with a larding needle or with a small, sharp knife. Roast the goose at 475° until tender. Unlike its domestic counterpart, wild goose is dry and should be basted frequently with a mixture of 1 cup dry white wine, 1 cup orange juice, and 2 tablespoons lemon juice.
For an older goose, braising is the best solution. A standard recipe for pot roast may be followed, substituting chicken broth for the usual water. The goose must be cooked very slowly, in the oven or on top of the stove, in a tightly covered, heavy braising pot. Lard the bird with strips of salt pork, as with the gosling, and place it in the pot on a bed of vegetables (such as potatoes, carrots, celery, leeks), with the broth only halfway covering it. A good stuffing for braised goose is a mixture of sliced apples and onions, with prunes that have been soaked a while in water to make them very moist. A classic mashed potato and celery stuffing-may be used, if preferred.—ED.
Mrs. Mabon's article on the steak (FOOD, Oct. 20) certainly hit a warm spot in my rather large family's fancy.
While her article is full of poignant suggestions, it does not specifically state what cut of meat should be used for the steak au poivre or for the steak Chateaubriand.