O.K., gang, spell apocalypse backwards: "E-S-P-Y...." In its fifth year, the ESPY Awards show ( ESPN, Feb. 10, 8 p.m.) is becoming as much of a fixture as the Grammys or the Emmys. But does anybody really care who wins the ESPY in the category of Men's Bowling (unless you're going to give it to Randy Quaid for Kingpin)! The last time we looked, folks kept score at athletic contests. Isn't that (not to mention the salaries of most honorees) enough? Granted, the E in ESPN stands for Entertainment But on this night it also stands for Excess.