The best weeks of the year on the Cape follow Labor Day, when the crowds leave. Days are sparkling, nights are cool.
Staying there: In Provincetown, the Provincetown Inn has private beach, swimming pool, good food, good view. top room rate is $14 after Sept. 6. Best restaurants: The Flagship, The Moors. In North Truro, the Governor Prencc is best motel, with pool and beautiful view of Cape Cod Bay. Top rate $12 after Labor Day. Chatham and Monomoy Island are bird watchers' mecca in September. Wayside Inn and Ridgevale Motel are first-rate; Captain's Table, Chatham Arms and Christopher Ryder House are among best restaurants.
Playing there: Swimming is good through September. Fall fishing for striped bass, bluefish and tuna is excellent. Beach buggy tours of dunes and Outer Beach cost $1.75 for 50-minute trip from Provincetown.