Of the three Guianas, Surinam is the best arranged for tourism, with a tourist bureau at 10 Rockefeller Plaza, New York 20, N.Y. The Surinam Torarica, in Paramaribo, opened last July with 80 air-conditioned rooms ($19-$23 double, European plan, and $10 a day per person for meals). It has a pool, a casino and gardens full of orchids. The population of Surinam includes Creoles, Hindus, Indonesians, Bush Negroes, Amerindians, Chinese and Europeans, and the cuisine is correspondingly varied. Try the pom (a Creole chicken pie) at the Palace Hotel and the Indonesian rijsttafel (SI, Aug. 24, 1959) at the Vervuurt. Dinner in Paramaribo is about $7 for two.
Sports: The rivers are full of huge kwie-kwie, kubifish, piranhas. There are tapir, jaguar, wild duck and deer waiting in the jungle. The Surinam government is building airstrips and fishermen's guesthouses. The first of these, at Stoelmans Island, is now ready. The CeTeCe Travel & Tour Bureau in the Torarica and the Surinam Travel & Tour Bureau, Weidestratt 47, Paramaribo organize fishing and hunting trips. Guns and tackle can be provided, and the cost is around $85 a day.
The best hotel in Montevideo is the 400-room Victoria Plaza. A double room, European plan, costs $15-$20, plus 26% service charge. Also recommended is the new Columbia Palace, with 150 rooms ($8-$10 plus the 26% for a double, without meals). Closer to the beaches are the Parque Hotel on Ram�rez Beach, with a casino, and the Hotel Casino Carrasco on Carrasco Beach, 12 miles up the coast. The Parque charges about $16 a day for a double room, European plan, 18% service added. The Carrasco opens only during the season, Dec. 8 to March 24 ($20 double, European plan, plus 15%).
Restaurants: The Golf Club is the fashionable place for lunch. Chichilo's is lively and Italian (the owner will sing an aria if you ask him). The Aguila has wooden paneling and pavesa (a local soup, almost a meal in itself). The check for two ranges from $5 to $10, plus a service charge of 22%.
Sports: There is golf at the Montevideo Club, which has a championship course. Horse racing is on Thursdays and weekends. Cattle roundups are held at nearby estancias, and a visit is easily arranged through a travel agent. There is dorado fishing at Rinc�n del Bonete on the R�o Negro, at the Fray Bentos Fishing Club and at Salto Grande near the Argentine border. Accommodations are pleasant and cheap (about $5 per person per day) in a ranch-style guesthouse. The lush South Atlantic coast of Uruguay has about 50 resorts strung along the 200 miles between Montevideo and the Brazilian border. There is deep-sea fishing all along the coast for shark, pompano, Atlantic corvina (a kind of sea bass), bonito. At Punta Ballena you will find a charming modern hotel, the Solana del Mar, where a double room with meals costs from $20 to $30 plus 25% service. The most famous of the resorts is Punta del Este, a completely informal place where women wear slacks even to the casino. A man wearing a tie would be run out of town. Accommodations are at a premium in the summer. The nicest place is the Cantegril Country Club, which takes transients ($21 for a double room, European plan). At Punta del Este comes the best chance to get out of the steak rut. The fish is almost jumping with freshness. The Mariskonea Restaurant makes a specialty of the tiny, succulent clams of the region (a meal for two costs from $7 to $10). El Mejill�n, a caf� in the center of town, serves plates of mussels cooked in white wine.
Shopping: Antelope bags, gloves and coats are of excellent quality in Montevideo, and very reasonable. A full-length woman's coat costs about $40. Nutria fur, which makes marvelous linings for both men's and women's coats, is a good buy. For men there are well-made buckskin shoes ($20) and sweaters of native wool in sophisticated colors for $8 to $13 at Adam.
Caracas is a swinging Caribbean city. The 400-room Hotel Tamanaco charges $18.50 a day for a double room, European plan. Dining is dear (about $20 for two) in the many good restaurants: El Jard�n, Hect�r, Quasimodo, Monseigneur, Paprika, Tarzilandia (for steaks grilled on open-air spits).