SI Vault
Jule Campbell
September 09, 1963
The strong sporting influence found in all men's and women's fashions this fall brings with it a whole lexicon of names for sporting attire. The names sound of horses and stables, of guns and fields—names such as surcingle, Newmarket and gillie—which have been handed down by Scottish and English country men through 200 years or more. Many of them, like the articles they describe, have been gathering dust on fashion's shelf for quite a while. But this fall the names have been brought out and polished off again to label new versions of the old accouterments of sport, one more proof that the past is worth preserving. They are presented here in glossary form as a guide to the accessories of the season.
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September 09, 1963

A Glossorial Guide To A Sporting Fall

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The fringed tongue, which flaps like a skirt over the instep of a shoe and covers the lacings, gives this shoe its name. It was devised by a canny Scot to keep the sand and wet grass out of his golf shoes. This year the kiltie appears for country wear as well as golf in a slip-on version by Johnston & Murphy (see page M3). The cost: $35 a pair.

This is a color—a heathery mixture of colors, actually, mostly blue-green-rust. It was devised by an early Lord Lovat, who had tweeds made to match the color of the autumn landscape around his estate to serve as hunting clothes. This was one of the first uses of human camouflage. And it influenced the uniforms of the world's military. Lovat is one of this fall's most popular colors for men's and women's country tweeds.

Cording and Co. Ltd., a London firm, made up the first Newmarket boots in the 1890s as waterproof protection for racehorse trainers and farmers and named them after the famous Newmarket training grounds. The outside shell is canvas, the inside leather, with rubber sandwiched between. Miller's, a New York harness shop, has the original Newmarkets ($72 for men, $68 for women). A new version made of rubber and canvas costs $20 for men, $18 for women. The one illustrated above has a black-patent mudguard. It is by Golo and costs $23. It is perfect for sloshing through wet country anywhere or for comfortable wear at frosty football games.

In the 1880s the Duke of Norfolk devised a belted hunting suit that had box pleats of the same fabric over each shoulder. These served as extra support for bellows pockets full of shells. There was also a central inverted box pleat in the back for shooting freedom. The design of the Norfolk has had its moments of popularity with American men, particularly in the early 1900s. This fall, once more, it is back as the most sporting of sport jackets (see Sporting Look).

Lord Raglan, British commander during the Crimean War, converted a service blanket into a capelike coat as a shield against icy weather. He had lost an arm at Waterloo, and the garment, for him, was much more comfortable than stiffly tailored military overcoats. The design was further perfected and developed into a coat in which the seaming of the sleeves, instead of being set in at the shoulder, extended to the collar line (above). The design has been used ever since, particularly for rainwear and sporting topcoats, which are often reversible. One of the best of this fall's raglans is in sand-colored whipcord, lined in a bright tartan. It is made in England by Driway Weathercoats, Ltd., and it costs about $95.

This is the name for the girth of a racing saddle, often made of strong webbing, striped in the colors of a stable. The webbing, the leathers and the brasses have been adapted for belts worn with riding breeches. And now the surcingle is one of this fall's best-selling sports belts—for pedestrians as well as equestrians. The one illustrated (above) is from Canterbury, an American firm that has its surcingle belts made for them in England. They are $4.

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