STAYING THERE: There are 35 hotels in Monaco. The premier one since 1880 has been the Hotel de Paris. It is to Monte Carlo what the Negresco is to Nice, the Carlton to Cannes. A single here, European plan, goes for $12 to $30, a double from $16 to $40 per day. Suites arc astronomically higher. The Metropole is less ornate, no less distinguished and a lot less costly: $8 to $12 for a single, $16 to $22 per double. The best middle-class hotel is the Helder, where a double with bath can be had for $10.
EATING THERE: Of Monaco's 85 restaurants, the panoramic Roof Grill of the Hotel de Paris is the first choice when price does not matter. Depending largely on the. wine one selects—the Grill has the best caves on the Riviera—a dinner will run from $10 to $15 per person. In the $5-to-$10-per-person category the best restaurants are Le Bec Rouge (where Princess Grace and Prince Rainier frequently dine), Rampoldi and Le Sorrento. Unfortunately, there are no little dockside seafood restaurants. For these, natives cross over into France, where they find—more easily than at home—such Mon�gasque specialties as pissaladi�re (anchovy-olive-and-onion tart). One unforgettable excursion out of the principality is to Eze-Village, perched on its eagle's nest on top of the Basse Corniche, with all the Riviera strung out in lights below. The Ch�vre d'Or is the place to dine.
GETTING THERE: If you're flying, Nice is the airport destination—30 minutes from Monte Carlo by bus or car. From New York, Pan Am flies to Nice via Lisbon and Barcelona; Air France makes a stop in Paris. Either way, the first-class round-trip fare is $837, the economy jet fare, $503.50. From Paris, the Blue Train departs each evening from the Gare de Lyon at 8:03, arrives in Monte Carlo at 9:25 in the morning. A single sleeping compartment is $58.45.