Night grips the
northern Michigan forest in a frozen shroud and low squadrons of nimbus clouds,
bellies bloated with snow, scud over the stands of pine and birch. A knot of
people, all puffed with winter clothing, shivers in the darkness watching the
corner of a rutted, one-lane logging trail carved through the woods. Muted
somewhere far away in the wilderness, a moaning sound is on the rise. "Car
coming!" someone shouts, and the small crowd shies back.
The sound becomes
identifiable as an engine straining at high revs. Headlights appear through the
silhouetted pickets of the trees, and a car, its nose marked by quartz-iodine
headlights, comes over a small knoll and bears down on the corner at 80 mph. At
the last second its driver moves down through a pair of gear changes, reaching
second before he flings his muddy Toyota coupe into a power slide through the
corner. Still crabbing sideways with its engine screeching, the car skates
dangerously near a stockade of birches lining the trail and disappears into the
dark. Other cars follow, deepening the furrows of sandy soil with each spinning
tire. Another dozen or so cars pass by the collection of spectators, surging
out of the gloom in ragged intervals, before the last of them, crippled and
battered, departs into the black woods, returning the forest to the silence of
an early winter night.
On they go,
through the thickets of Michigan's Upper Peninsula in what is known as the
Press On Regardless International Rally, legitimately described as
" America's oldest, longest, meanest car rally." It also is one of the
more obscure of all U.S. motor events.
A group of
amateur sports-car freaks from Detroit is responsible for the Press On
Regardless, which is a valid facsimile of the rallies being run on the
Continent. By using a spiderweb of state and federally owned forestry roads and
trails in the expanses of northern Michigan they have managed to keep the
racers isolated from the public while permitting them to employ the kind of
driving styles used in Europe. While the POR has been run in various
permutations for 25 years, it has used its present 1,700-mile-long, car-killing
format for the past four seasons. For two years the event has counted as one of
10 international events that make up the World Rally Championship, though
participation by European stars has been limited.
The concept is
relatively simple. The competitors (this year 58 cars, each carrying a driver
and navigator) run from dusk to dawn for three consecutive nights, covering 500
to 600 miles on each run. Most of the rally takes place on "special
stages," where from one-to 13-mile stretches of wilderness trails are cut
off from normal traffic, and the rallyists try to run them at the fastest
possible speeds. The quicker one goes, the fewer penalty points awarded, and
the team with the lowest overall score wins. "For years we tried to make
the public understand the difference between a race and a rally," says Bill
Stephenson, a bearded, pipe-smoking veteran of the POR. "Now we've given
up. Hell, it's a race—a simple race against the clock."
Now, it is
snowing on the parking lot of a restaurant in the bleak resort town of
Manistique. The winds swirling off nearby Lake Michigan are harsh and the
condensing exhausts of the rally cars and their support vehicles eddy among the
headlights. Crewmen, cursing the cold, scramble around the machines, changing
tires and bashing rumpled bodywork back into shape with hammerblows. Inside,
the bleary drivers and navigators revive themselves with soggy chicken
drumsticks and black coffee.
Walt Boyce and
Doug Woods, a pair of young Canadians from Ottawa, have established an early
lead and are adding to it in their Toyota Corolla 1600C, thanks to Boyce's
forceful, sideways-through-the-spruce-trees driving and Woods' precise
navigation. Boyce's altar-boy face, wreathed in a wispy beard, is strained with
fatigue. He is the three-time rallying champion of Canada, a former ski racer
whose multiple shoulder dislocations forced him into competitive driving.
"Actually we're in such good shape because Doug ran the entire 1,700 miles
a few weeks ago," Boyce says. "He made a complete set of pace notes—a
list of every hill, turn and rough spot in the entire rally. The notes were so
complete he sold more than 30 copies at $30 apiece. A lot of our competitors
are using them, too. They almost got us into trouble last night: Doug skipped a
line as we approached a blind knoll at about 85 mph. He read to me 'flat over
crest,' so I stayed hard on the throttle. But the road made a sharp left turn.
We managed to slide through—but we bounced the rear end off some trees. It got
a bit hairy for a moment, but I'm used to driving roads like this blind, and in
a sense it's easier."
In this setting,
one cannot spot the foreigners. Among the diners is Edgar Herrmann, a stolid,
41-year-old German hotelman from Kenya, two-time winner of the East African
Safari Rally, a genuine star in the sport. But his impressive credentials will
do him little good; he will finish an obscure 14th without ever threatening the
leaders. "Up here," says a POR oldtimer, "one is crazy to run
without a veteran Michigan navigator. It's like hunting polar bear without a
guide."
By St. Ignace,
beyond the Mackinac Bridge, the automobiles are a mess. Most are pocked with
dents resulting from various sudden confrontations with tree trunks, ditches
and the occasional white-tailed deer. All are coated with a glaze of mud and
grime that gives them more a look of military reconnaissance vehicles than
racing cars. Fewer than half of the Toyotas, Volvos, Datsuns, Fiats and such
that swept away from Detroit two days earlier are still present. The others
have either crashed or broken along the route. A quasi-official trio of
four-wheel-drive American Motors Jeep wagons scattered their engines on the
first night. Embarrassingly, someone had goofed in setting them up for the
race. Last year a similar vehicle, driven by a jocular Dearborn policeman named
Gene Henderson, appeared on the POR for the first time and won easily—much to
the noisy dismay of the sports-car purists. They maintained the rally was
intended for conventional automobiles, not burly bog-jumpers like the Jeep, and
predicted the rally would turn into a northwoods version of the Baja 1000
offroad race if the four-wheel-drive cars were allowed. But the Jeeps were
properly qualified under the international rules that govern the POR. In fact,
while no Jeeps have been successful in other world championship rallies, they
bring unique strength to the POR, where their mountain-goat traction in the mud
and sand offsets the speed and nimbleness of the competition.
Mixed in with the
racers now is one other serious international team, a three-car contingent from
Poland, driving Fiat 125P sedans built in Warsaw. A lot of bad jokes later, it
is discovered that Team Polski, which includes Andrzej Jaroszewicz, the
youthful son of the Polish Prime Minister, is indeed in dead earnest about
winning. But the roads are as strange as the language and the nights are long,
and despite excellent organization and the blessings of the Polish Ministry of
Machinery, Team Polski lumbers home in 6th, 11th and 15th places.