The place
bludgeons the senses: sprint cars rip through the turns, blurring the vision
with violet slides and battering the eardrums with their wicked detonations.
But the setting is familiar. There is the sweet aroma of fresh hay and manure
rising from the livestock barns, the temptation of the midway concessions, the
distant chatter of carnival hawkers. This is the Florida State Fair Grounds,
tucked in the center of Tampa at the confluence of interstate highways, and its
locus is the shady bulk of the grandstand presiding over the rich textures of
the half-mile dirt track.
Every year since
the winter of 1921 the sprint cars have come here, testing men as few other
machines can—slinging them around a rude oval lined with cement and corrugated
steel in defiance of the laws of reason and physics. Sixty-six of the muscular
racers have been brought to the 55th annual Tampa Winter National Sprints. They
have come from the Midwest and the Great Plains and the heartland of the
sprinters, the Pennsylvania Dutch country.
It has been part
of the litany of effete motor sports enthusiasts to downgrade dirt-track racing
as the high-speed groping of brave but dull antediluvians. These purists reason
that if one does not whisk over hill and dale aboard a gossamer-frail formula
machine, playing a fugue on a five-speed gearbox, gracefully veering both right
and left, one is a primitive. Yet breeding runs as strong in sprinters as in
the most advanced European Grand Prix car. European racing grew on networks of
blocked-off public roads, while American competition was adapted to a different
kind of venue, the half-and one-mile dirt horse-racing ovals of the towns and
villages. Our domestic racing heritage, often sublimated by a provincial
fascination for things continental, includes a thoroughbred lineage of makes
such as Miller and Duesenberg and Offenhauser and Kurtis, and drivers on the
order of Ralph DePalma and Jimmy Murphy (the first American to win a European
Grand Prix) and Wilbur Shaw. A. J. Foyt, three-time winner of the Indianapolis
500, considers sprint racing on dirt the supreme driving challenge, as does
Mario Andretti, another talented veteran of all types of competition.
"This is real
Wild West racing," says Kenny Weld, a compact young man who has made a
brilliant record on the rugged Pennsylvania circuit. "It's really more of
an art than a craft. Some guys can do it for years and never go fast. If I
didn't think it was the best racing in the world, I wouldn't be here," he
says, climbing into his 550-hp, Chevy-powered sprinter with its classic high
profile (the low-to-the-track rear-engine cars that run at Indianapolis and in
Formula I are unsuitable for dirt-track competition). His car is the embodiment
of function—a lean trusswork of chrome-steel tubing housing little more than
the engine, a seat for the driver and the fuel cell. The tough, exquisitely
basic suspension system composed of four torsion bars is perfectly suited to
the brutal pounding of the rutted and furrowed track.
"There's not
much money at Tampa," says Weld. "The track is miserable. It's unlike
any other in the world; the surface changes from lap to lap and the dust has a
gummy quality that sticks to your goggles. If you try to rub it off, it smears
and the granules of sand scratch the lenses. Half the problem is vision, the
other half is setting up the chassis, which is about impossible because the car
is airborne most of the time. This is a pure ego thing. The best sprint car
drivers in the nation are here, and if you win, you've done something. That's
why we all come, but I'll tell you, this place is so rough I head north as fast
as I can when it's over. I've got the thing blanked out of my mind by the time
I hit the Georgia border."
When the
oldtimers gather at Tampa, or at the other major sprint car championships in
Phoenix or at Knoxville, Iowa, idle talk often escalates into arguments about
the greatest sprint car driver of them all. The names of Gus Schrader,
eight-time International Motor Contest Association champion; Tommy Hinnershitz,
the smiling, iron-jawed Pennsylvania Dutchman; and Foyt are bandied about with
noisy ardor. But more and more a new name is being heard, that of Jan Opperman,
a shaggy, bead-draped Jesus freak from the wilds of Montana. This free spirit
has given masterful exhibitions of controlling a car on dirt, and each day more
and more sprint car men are admitting that this "durned hippie" is the
best they have ever seen. Opperman, who temporarily left racing a number of
years ago for the solitude of the California mountains, there to contemplate
the more cosmic aspects of life, came back driving better than most of the
heroes of the United States Auto Club's sprint car division and often
winning—especially in races on dirt. He made his first appearance in the
Indianapolis 500 last year and ran well, if briefly. But he will not go back
because he refuses to "knock on every dude's door just to get a ride in his
car." Opperman won three of five feature races in the 1974 Tampa Winter
Nationals and returned this year with a new machine incorporating many things
of his own design, including a Maltese (or Maltese-type) cross engraved on the
nose. "Sprinters are the toughest full-tilt racing in the world and Tampa
is neutral ground," he says. "Nobody has an edge at Tampa."
"This crazy
place can assume four different personalities in one afternoon," says
driver Chuck Amati, a dapper Alabaman with patent leather racing boots who
endeared himself to Tampa fans with such hairy feats as flipping his car upside
down—then plopping it back on its wheels and continuing with the race. "It
will start out smooth and tacky, then it'll develop a soft dirt cushion. After
that, the ruts will get so deep you can hardly keep the car right side up.
Finally the sun will bake the surface hard and slick as asphalt. The worst
thing is that damned sticky dust. We use layers of plastic lenses on our
helmets called tearaways and when one gets dirty you just rip it off to expose
the clean ones underneath. At most tracks you'll use three or four, but last
year I started a race in this place with eight and I still ran the last few
laps flyin' blind."
The races at
Tampa unreel before packed grandstands, cars screeching through the narrow
corners three abreast, flinging gouts of clay against the high fences. There
are some accidents, one an awesome pileup in the third turn as four cars tumble
and swivel through the air like wind-driven leaves, but, thanks to stout roll
cages, no one is hurt. Considering the intensity of the competition and the
clutter of machinery on the track, the drivers—who pump like mad organists on
the throttles to maintain their incredible broadslides—must rank with the best
in the world.
It takes Opperman
a few rounds to get his new machine "cooked up"—sprinter parlance for
making a car handle. He flirts with the leaders in the opening races, finishing
high, but losing successive main events to Rick Ferkel, a veteran from Ohio,
Bill Utz, defending national IMCA champion from Missouri, and Darryl Dawley, a
young pro from Sioux Falls, S.D. But then, as expected, it is the hippie's
turn. On a sunny Saturday afternoon, before stands packed with fans, he wins
the 50-lap main. He follows it up Sunday with another main event victory and
that locks up his second straight Tampa title.
When the
sprinters coast into the pits after five days of racing, their bright bodies
fogged with clay, a grim silence envelops the old place. This is the end. The
last race has been run at Tampa. After 55 years, pressed by the crush of the
booming city, and in particular by the expanding University of Tampa, the State
Fair is giving up its downtown location. The racetrack will disappear.