"Irish
education," he says while continuing into Dublin's center, "is more or
less beaten into you. It was a tough transition when I went to Villanova, where
you had to take notes from lectures and ask questions. Here you copied what was
on the board and memorized it. Gaelic especially was taught that way. In the
1800s the English suppressed Gaelic, and ever since we've been trying to revive
it. I needed to pass it to leave high school, but now I only have the habit of
a phrase or two."
Coghlan draws up
before Bord F�ilte, the Irish Tourist Board, where he has worked as the youth
and educational representative since July of 1977. "I spent five months
reading brochures for study programs and youth tours, and meeting tour
operators, and I'm still not aware of all the products available," he
says.
Coghlan is
marvelous at his work for about a dozen reasons. His celebrity, his American
education, his manner are means of opening communication, but what a listener
remembers is his feeling for Ireland and the Irish. He emphasizes their warmth
toward visitors, the immense sweep of Ireland's history, the power of its
spoken and written word, the beauty of its landscape, and just when one begins
to grow uneasy with such superlatives, Coghlan confesses his frustrations with
his people's complex character and in so doing lifts himself clear of public
relations.
"The Irish
are a hidebound breed," he says, not at all mildly. "In the country,
life is parochial, people caring only to keep to themselves and their
traditional ways and not taking notice of the rest of the world." He
mentions novelist James Plunkett (Strumpet City), a Dubliner who has written
that "Observers of human character, when they have turned their attention
to Dublin, have isolated with remarkable unanimity the distinguishing mark of
its true-born citizen.... He will share a characteristic philosophy, the
essence of which is a serene and fatalistic composure." Plunkett explained
this by reference to the Dubliners' habit of brooding over disappointments.
"Add to this an inherited race memory and the history of his native
city—that story of siege, pestilence, invasion, rebellion, fire, slaughter,
persecution and civil war—and the combination seems likely to instill tolerance
and patience to an unusual degree."
To Coghlan,
returned from the activism and efficiencies of the New World, the stolid traits
of his people often seem lamentable. "Even though traffic is horrendous,
Dublin doesn't want a new expressway over the bay," he says. "We can't
construct new office buildings because they may disturb some of the old Viking
city Dublin is built upon. It is wonderful to have such a past, but sometimes
you have to cease dwelling on the ordeals the Irish have endured and think of
the future." This perhaps sounds too strident to him, so he says, "I
admit I've thought of leaving, but my heart is still in Ireland."
In his bright,
poster-filled office, Coghlan makes dozens of telephone calls, organizing
presentations, itineraries, luncheons. His English takes on more pace, a
stiffer accent when he is addressing countrymen. "When I'm in the States
I'm influenced by the voices," he says, grinning. "In Dublin I revert
to the way the tongue is meant to be used." John Synge, who wrote, among
other masterpieces, The Playboy of the Western World, felt that the Irish have
been notable in English literature because of the "invigorating
suggestiveness" of Irish popular speech, but Coghlan finds that American
slang has equivalent force. " 'Airhead' makes people here smile," he
says, "though 'zonked' is incomprehensible."
While Coghlan
labors at his arranging, a gnomish, gray-haired man pops into his office. J. P.
Murray is the golf promotion adviser to the Tourist Board, a runner and a man
of clear pronouncements. "There is nothing good advertised on TV," he
says, apropos of how valuable is the wholesome appeal of Coghlan. "Not
sunsets, not fresh fruit, not rainbows. Not even women for their own sake."
Murray can feel his society exerting firm pressure against being first-rate.
"Decay is everywhere. Insidious. Now they're reducing a natural, elemental
thing like running to second-rate 'jogging' or 'fun runs.' " He looks as if
he's about to spit. "You never see anyone playing 'fun golf.' "
Coghlan lunches
in the Old Stand, which is filled with golden light, paintings of Dublin street
scenes, brass and dark paneling. "Pub grub," says Coghlan, hacking into
his lamb chops at the bar.
"You've been
in the big time since we saw you last," says Seamus O'Rourke, pouring him a
Harp lager.
"Things fell
into place," says Coghlan easily. When O'Rourke has gone, Coghlan reflects
that his 26-year life has seemed a charmed one. "Things have always fitted
into place. When I was in high school and my running came into conflict with
the demands of hard Irish scholarship, I chose running, and through that got a
good university education. Now I have a good job, surpassing most of the guys
who ground it out at school."