Hotel Liburnia

I am sitting in an open-air restaurant on the island of Stupe, where both staff and customers arrive each day by boat. I can't read the menu because it's in Croatian, but I tell the waitress I would like some fish. "We have first-class fish," she says, "and second-class fish. The first-class fish is much better." Well, that was an easy choice....

When you've got a week to tool around Croatia's Adriatic coast, it's all about making the right choices. The most important decision is where to take your boat, and you've got plenty of options because Croatia has 1,185 islands. On Korcula, which has a medieval town and the 13th-century house where Marco Polo was born, vacationers spend their days sunning themselves on topless beaches and their nights in outdoor cafés, eating fresh seafood, sampling the local wines and listening to outdoor concerts.

If you're not looking for a party, you can find tranquillity on Croatia's smaller islands, such as Vrnik. That island has about 20 houses--some rentals--and no roads or cars, and the loudest noise you hear is the clear sea lapping against white limestone beaches. As you stroll down Vrnik's dusty seaside paths, you can feel points dropping off your blood pressure. If you can't find peace of mind here, it's your fault. You won't find many creature comforts on Vrnik, but this is a first-class getaway. --Bill Syken